 |
Making the corner asymmetric |
![Pattern [2]](icn/4,3-a-0-intro.gif) |
With 1 black creates an asymmetrical
situation in the corner thus giving the
development a natural direction
of continuation: along the left side of
the board. The reason that the left side
is more important than the lower side is
that black 1 is on the fourth line of
the left side and on the third line of
the lower side.
Black's continuations
If black continues here he can either
play a tight move with A or B, a slightly
less tight move with C or D, or play a
large scale move with E or F.
White's continuations
If white decides to continue locally
he will attack the corner with either
A or B. Both moves will be discussed
in great detail.
When settling locally is all what white
wants then white will approach with A but
in general white will choose the high move B.
In some (special) circumstances white
will approach the corner from a larger
distance with C or D. These moves will however
not be discussed in this joseki introduction.
|
Pattern 2 |
Black quickly settles the corner |
![Pattern [2.1]](icn/4,3-a-1.gif) |
As mentioned before black 1 intends to
make a
corner enclosure
(with any of 2, 3, 4 or 6).
White 2 prevents such an enclosure and at the
same time attacks the corner stone.
If black wants to settle the corner
quickly the attachment with 3 is the
recommended method.
In return for the corner territory
white gets a position along the left side
with either A or B. The exact location of
this move will depend on the global
situation on the board and especially the
situation in the upper-left corner. Please
study the professional games to get an
understanding of how to choose between these options.
|
Pattern 2.1 |
Can white develop the lower side? |
![Pattern [2.1.1]](icn/4,3-a-11.gif) |
But what can white do after black 3 when
he would like to develop the lower edge?
The answer is the rather crude move of 4.
This move triggers one of the most complicated
joseki known in Go today: the
nadare
(Japanese for avalanche, because of the
white stones [snow] gliding over the black [rocks]).
This joseki is far too complicated to discuss here.
I give three examples to illustrate what might happen.
The variation shown here is maybe the most simple
variation possible: black takes the corner and
white achieves his aim to develop the lower side.
But things are not that simple unfortunately.
Please see the next diagram.
|
Pattern 2.1.1 |
The nadare spells complications |
![Pattern [2.1.2]](icn/4,3-a-12.gif) |
Just to show you how complicated things
can get I include this variation. The
result is that black develops a position
along the lower side and white along the left
side. Both sides are very strong and these
two positions of
thickness
will strongly affect the fighting on this part of the board.
The
nadare
is a so called large
scale joseki with many variations spreading
over the board and affecting the game as
a whole. The next diagram illustrates this
with a final example of what might happen
in this joseki.
|
Pattern 2.1.2 |
Takemiya's recommendation |
![Pattern [2.1.3]](icn/4,3-a-13.gif) |
This variation is the main line of
the
o-nadare
(large avalanche). Black gets the corner and in return
white gets a position along the left side
and in the center. The white and black
group in the center will be the main
focus in the rest of the game and the
evaluation of this joseki will strongly
depend on the situation in the lower-right
and upper-left corner.
But please forget about these variations!
You don't need to play this joseki.
When I asked
Takemiya Masaki
about this joseki he said:
"I will never ever play nadare in my life again.
I don't like large scale joseki since it's
complicated and it settles too much of the board.
For beginners as white I recommend just to play the simple
variation as shown in pattern 2.1."
(And as black choose either 2.1.1 or 2.1.2, both variations are
reasonably straightforward and sente [editor]).
|
Pattern 2.1.3 |
Having an eye for efficiency |
![Pattern [2.2]](icn/4,3-a-2.gif) |
Now let's return to the joseki in
diagram 4,3-a-1:
If extending along the left side
one point further is of valuable to white
(for example, because white 8 has
some extra meaning for the upper-left corner)
then white can play 6 instead of the solid
connection enabling him to extend to 8.
|
Pattern 2.2 |
Making the lower side interesting |
![Pattern [2.3]](icn/4,3-a-3.gif) |
In the two previous diagrams black's
position along the lower side of the
board is very solid and low making it
uninteresting and not urgent for both
players to play there for a while.
If black wishes to make the lower side
interesting (maybe because the right
corner has a black position) then black
will choose to play
keima with 3.
White can settle the
kakari stone with
the sequence through 8.
|
Pattern 2.3 |
Black shows a more aggressive attitude |
![Pattern [2.4.1]](icn/4,3-a-41.gif) |
So far black played very simple and
rather passive. But what happens when
black starts a fight by attacking the
attacker with for example black 3?
Black 3 is called a
hasami (pincer)
and usually leads to more complicated developments
since white usually cannot easily settle his
group and consequently fighting starts.
The recommended way to play here is white 4
which triggers a sequence which settles the
white shape in exchange for black territory
along the lower side of the board.
|
Pattern 2.4.1 |
Trading territory for center influence |
![Pattern [2.4.2]](icn/4,3-a-42.gif) |
In this variation black plays 7
to keep white out of the corner.
In return white gets the very pleasant
atari
at 8. The result is that black
takes some territory while white gets
a strong position on the outside and
sente.
|
Pattern 2.4.2 |
Another trade |
![Pattern [2.5]](icn/4,3-a-5.gif) |
Black 3 is more severe than the pincer which
was discussed in the previous diagrams.
White's
kosumi
at 4 prevents black from connecting at 9.
White wants to follow up the move at 4 with another stone at 12
thus developing the lower side.
Black 5 prevents this.
White 6 takes the 3,3 point and
the consequential moves show an exchange: black
takes territory on the left side while white 14 neutralizes
black 5 and establishes some
thickness
along the lower side of the board.
|
Pattern 2.5 |
White takes the initiative |
![Pattern [2.6]](icn/4,3-a-6.gif) |
If black answers white 6 by blocking it
with black 7 white will take the
initiative along the left side by pressing with 10.
|
Pattern 2.6 |
White wants to settle |
![Pattern [2.7.1]](icn/4,3-b-1.gif) |
The next couple of variations will discuss
the low approach by white with 2. Usually
this move will make it easier for white to
settle locally and consequently the variations
are a little easier compared to the high approach
move.
This variation shows a typical result: black develops
along the lower side while white settles his group
along the left side.
|
Pattern 2.7.1 |
White's settling technique |
![Pattern [2.7.2]](icn/4,3-b-2.gif) |
Because white 2 is low it is difficult
for black to prevent that white makes a
base for his group. For example, black 3
here prevents that white plays there but
white 4 and 6 settle the white group
anyway. In the final position white can
still play A or B and so is ensured of
enough space to live.
|
Pattern 2.7.2 |
Another way to get settled quickly |
![Pattern [2.7.3]](icn/4,3-b-3.gif) |
In this variation black attacks
white 2 by playing 3. White settles
his group quickly with the
kosumi
at 4
and after black defends with 5 (against white A),
white slides to 6 thus ensuring life.
Black 7 extends along the lower side to defend
against a white move at B.
|
Pattern 2.7.3 |
An interesting technique |
![Pattern [2.7.4]](icn/4,3-b-4.gif) |
The final variation in this line is
when black attacks white 2 with the
most severe move at 3. White uses
an interesting technique here: by attacking
black 1 white builds up enough power to
eventually neutralize black 3.
|
Pattern 2.7.4 |
Fast is very popular |
![Pattern [3]](icn/4,4-0-intro.gif) |
Black 4,4 (hoshi, star) is a fast
and center oriented move, very popular in
recent professional Go. The 4,4 move leads to
simple and easy to understand joseki
variations which also makes it a
popular move amongst amateurs.
Black's continuations
If black wants to develop the 4,4 stone
he can play large scale with A or tight
with B or C.
White's continuations
White usually approaches the
hoshi
stone with C. When approaching from the side is not
interesting white can take the corner by
invading at D.
|
Pattern 3 |
The left side is interesting |
![Pattern [3.1]](icn/4,4-1.gif) |
White approaches with 2 and black
3 prevents that white attacks the
corner from two sides (with either
3 or A). If white wants to settle
a group immediately he will slide
with 4 and extend with 6.
|
Pattern 3.1 |
The lower side is interesting |
![Pattern [3.2]](icn/4,4-2.gif) |
When the lower side of the board
is interesting for black to develop
he will answer white 2 with the
higher move at 3. Since the corner
is still open for invasion (at A)
white usually will not slide to B
(as in the previous diagram) but
play any of the points C to settle
the situation on the left side of the board.
This is a typical fast-paced development
around the
hoshi
stone.
|
Pattern 3.2 |
The left side is interesting |
![Pattern [3.3.1]](icn/4,4-31.gif) |
When the left side is interesting for black
(the upper-left corner is black for example)
he can choose to attack white from that
direction with black 3. White will usually
settle his stone by invading the corner and
take some territory in the process.
|
Pattern 3.3.1 |
A wall for corner territory |
![Pattern [3.3.2]](icn/4,4-32.gif) |
When black has a stone around A
black can build the wall in the
other direction with 5 as in this
diagram. Please note that white
ends up with
sente
this time.
|
Pattern 3.3.2 |
White's flexible attitude |
![Pattern [3.3.3]](icn/4,4-33.gif) |
One of the nice things about Go
is that things are never that
simple. For example, when black
plays 3 hoping that white will
invade the corner and black can build
a wall as in the previous diagram
white can frustrate black's plans
by playing
double-kakari
with 4.
Black 5 is the natural move and
white manages to settle a group
along the lower side of the board.
By the way, this is one of the more
complicated 4,4 joseki. You don't
need to study this joseki if you
feel you're not ready yet.
|
Pattern 3.3.3 |
Seeking overall efficiency |
![Pattern [3.4.1]](icn/4,4-41.gif) |
For balance with the upper-left
position black can choose the
higher pincer of 3 as well.
As with the low pincer white can play
simple and invade the corner leading
to exactly the same sequence as before.
|
Pattern 3.4.1 |
Stay alert when choosing a joseki |
![Pattern [3.4.2]](icn/4,4-42.gif) |
When white doesn't like that
black closes off the left side
as in the previous diagram he can
play as in this variation.
White settles his group by sliding
twice with 6 and 8.
This variation shows that white
has more options compared to the variation
in diagram 4,4-31. That's why the one-point
low pincer (3 at A) is gaining popularity
recently.
|
Pattern 3.4.2 |
Settling along the lower side |
![Pattern [3.5]](icn/4,4-5.gif) |
As with the one-point low pincer
it is possible for white to decide
to settle along the lower part of
the board by playing
double-kakari
with 4. Black 5 is a natural response
and the variation proceeds almost
identical as in diagram 4,4-33.
White settles along the bottom and
black becomes strong on the left side.
This variation is reasonable for white
since he ends up with
sente.
|
Pattern 3.5 |
Attacking hoshi from two sides |
![Pattern [3.6]](icn/4,4-6.gif) |
It is possible for black to ignore (for all kinds of
legitimate reasons) white's approach move at 2.
The natural continuation for white is to
play another attack on the corner with 4.
Black 5 is essential: split 2 and 4.
The moves proceed naturally up to 15.
Black is thick and white is settled along the bottom.
Black can also look forward to a nice
kikashi
at either A (white will answer B) or C (white
will connect). Which
kikashi
is best can be decided
at an appropriate moment later on in the game.
|
Pattern 3.6 |
| |
 |